Ahead of schedule: Canning Stock Route

We're setting a cracking pace on the Mercedes-Benz Canning Stock Route drive, travelling 565km over the first three days, at an average speed of 33km/h.

While that might not sound much, it is when you're facing mile upon mile of punishing corrugated roads, washaways, claustrophobic rocky tracks and dune upon soft dune requiring low-range, all diffs locked ascents...

While it's not a race as such, there's a relatively tight schedule to keep as the German part of the convoy has a charter plane to catch back to Perth at Well 33 (about half-way along the Canning track) on August 4, so we have just five days to get there...

What this all means is that we're stopping very little to 'sightsee' at the historical well sites that Canning and his crew placed at great personal expense on the original cattle route at about 20-30km intervals.

Instead, we're enjoying an exhilarating drive, with everything from 10km/h creekbed crawls, to wild 80km/h thrill rides along the rare two lane, heavily corrugated sections of the route.

Day 2 was a hard slog, with plenty of curly rocky sections and of course, corrugations! We also saw our first, relatively easy, sand dunes and stopped by the picturesque Lake Aerodrome for photos, where in 1980 a convoy of 6x6 Army trucks was a bit too adventurous on the salt crust, becoming bogged in the underlying deep mud for 10 days before being extracted.

Despite a hectic pace, we didn't quite make our scheduled campsite, pulling up instead at a spot near Well 12; one of the last wells to be reconstructed in 2003.

One of the reasons for our slower progress was a couple of punctures from 'Car 2', with the young, female German driver quickly earning the nickname 'Sidewall'.

It's a lesson for anyone who drives over tracks in this part of the world; avoid at all costs the numerous tyre-destroying roots, sticks and sharp stones that cover the surface, particularly along the side of the track.

Another of the Germans hits an overhanging branch at speed, taking off the left-hand mirror completely. He gets the nickname, 'Rearview'...

On the plus side, we do see a bit of wildlife, including emus, a goanna and kangaroo, much to the Germans' delight.

Heading out on Day 3, we achieved our top speed so far of 80km/h down a fast and slippery sandy section. Our elation quickly turns to frustration, with the first of several tall sand dunes, with many having a couple of tries before working out that low range and a combination of diff locks (easily selectable on the dash, mid-dune if required) is the best plan of attack.

The G-Wagens are proving formidable bush weapons, and comfortable too, with the supportive, upright leather seats a bonus over long stints in the saddle.

Other highlights on Day 3 include the spectacular red rocky escarpment of Durba Hills on the way to Durba Springs: our planned overnight campsite.

Unfortunately, the creek is dry, so no swimming and we push on another 34km to a campsite at Well 18. Trip leader Geoff Becker, is thrilled, as we're now ahead of schedule, rather than behind.

We also start to see some of the many discarded vehicles on the side of the road, including the remains of a burnt out Land Rover and Murray Rankin's abandoned trolley, located 18.3km north of Well 15.

The 28-year-old New Zealander set off from Wiluna in 1972, with two others, each pushing a two-wheeled cart loaded with 8 litres of water and 180lb of food! The crazy Kiwi made it as far as Well 24 before giving up in the soft sand.

But the journey thus far is best summed up by one of many travellers' comments in the guest book located at the picturesque Well 6 campground:

"Lost track of date and time, enjoying ourselves immensely. Heading north..."

Tracking the Canning Stock Route: