Honda Integra Type R Coupe (1999-2001)

QUICK TIPS
Buying a 1999-2001 Honda Integra Type R Coupe
The race bred technology and science behind the Integra Type R demonstrated that a small and powerful front drive sports coupe did not need all wheel drive to be a serious road car and formidable club racer. Joe Kenwright examines what is already an affordable and frugal performance milestone waiting for a road rally near you.

HISTORY
It may be front drive but the Integra Type R took the road and track preparation to Porsche 968 CS levels after Honda cut the weight to just over 1000kg and added serious horsepower, all 141kW of it. Air-conditioning was deleted, glass was thinner, the gearbox mounting damper was deleted, a plastic spare tyre cover replaced the wooden item and a lightweight exhaust system was fitted. Road noise and drivetrain harshness went up a level or two, the ride is lumpy and there can be an exhaust drone above 110km/h so don't even consider one if you are looking for a magic carpet. As a serious tool, it has few peers.

The aggressive contouring of the Recaro race seats bars entry to only the light of limb and rear seats are no place for full-sized adults. What you get is an amazing engine that has a Formula I scream to it after 6,000rpm when the VTEC kicks in and peak power hits at 7900rpm. A torque peak that doesn't arrive until 6300rpm demands constant gear shifts in city driving but out of town, the heavy duty close-ratio gearbox and limited slip diff can keep you singing with minimal torque steer and bags of grip.

Understeer is cut back leaving throttle-sensitive neutral handling with revised suspension settings including a reduction in ride height. Brake rotors and callipers take a big hike over standard with beefier rear wheel bearings and five stud wheel mounting.

MODEL HISTORY

PRICES
Early examples over 100,000 km sell under $20,000 while the last models in mint, low km condition can stretch to $30,000 but only with verifiable local history.

CHECK IT OUT
Awesome 141kW engine from just 1.8-litres is one of the most efficient in the business with all alloy construction, high compression head, low drag pistons, hand-polished intake and exhaust ports. It must have 98 RON premium unleaded to deliver acceptable torque at low revs. Almost bulletproof except poor quality oil and coolant will kill it.

This highly sophisticated engine can sludge up quickly if slogged around town and oil changes are allowed to creep past 5000km. Apart from clogging the oil ways and generating oil starvation, it will also stop the VTEC from working. Walk away if there isn't a clean but noticeable transition as the VTEC kicks in all the way through the rev range but make sure that the engine is fully warmed-up before you try.

Clutch can take a hiding if it needs to be constantly slipped around town. Make sure that any replacement is the correct heavy duty Type R clutch. Torsen limited slip differential should bite cleanly and not have unusual noises or lash. Check all CV joints. They normally last but not if the boots are split.

Brake rotors and pads last better than some but require more frequent replacement than usual Integra. There are some good pad and rotor upgrades.

Check synchros in gearbox. They normally don't wear but will suffer from overzealous shifting in moonlight drags especially 1-2 shift.

Make sure that the car is a genuine, locally delivered Type R. Get a feel for what the real thing looks like and check it out with Honda Australia if it seems dodgy.

If the engine and drivetrain have been modified which is common, how good are the components? Who has done the work? What has it been used for? What has been gained and lost? Check if the fuel economy, exhaust noise inside and driveability are within tolerance for your intended usage.

The Type R needs serious V-rated rubber which wears out at the rate of three sets of fronts for every set of rears if you use the grunt. With this level of performance, it helps if you have four tyres of the same brand and tread level on all four wheels. Allow upwards of $300 per tyre if the rubber is not right.

Wider wheels and further suspension mods are common but there is a point where there is no ride left and the finely tuned geometry is compromised if the wheel offset is wrong. Drive the car and if it tramlines and crashes through bumps, leave it for the club racer if you need to commute in it.

Check that race seats are present and correct and the trim is unstained and in good shape. They are not cheap to repair. Make sure that the air-cond works. Check for a complete set of keys including spares that can activate the security system, not just open the locks. Getting a spare key with the right chip in it or reprogramming the computer for new keys can cost a small fortune.

Body sides are prone to dings and nose cone attracts traffic nudges and stone chips so check the quality of any repairs. Rear spoiler blocks vision so check for rear collision damage.

High desirability and wild joy ride potential makes lock-up storage and custom alarm essential.