canning Stock Route — Road To Nowhere...

Yesterday I was in Melbourne, population four million, hurtling down the busy Citylink in a yellow cab towards the airport.

Today I'm heading out from Wiluna, population about 700, bouncing down a red sandy trail with no signposts and seemingly no end in sight...

Wiluna was where Alfred Canning and his men set out in 1908 on their well-sinking expedition, using camels and packhorses and eventually taking a tortuous two years to complete the well-watered route.

As pampered, modern day explorers, we're planning to 'do' the track in a whirlwind two weeks, trading horse saddles for leather-lined, air-conditioned G-Wagens.

Today Wiluna services indigenous and mining communities, and has a particularly rowdy pub, but for 4WD enthusiasts, it's the last chance to stock up on supplies before hitting the Canning Stock Route or Gunbarrel Highway.

The comfy Airbus A330 with its in-seat DVDs is in stark contrast to the noisy turbo-prop 19 seater as it flies out of Perth over greenfields that gradually turn to red sand broken up by the occasional slither of highway...

Our forward party, including trip leader Geoff Becker, made the 950km trip by road over two days (mostly bitumen except for the last 150km or so of dirt) earlier, and are eagerly awaiting our arrival...

After a brief safety briefing, we're let loose in the vehicles. It's a small convoy, just four production G-Wagens and two 'stripped-out' G- Professionals, which 'Benz is evaluating Down Under and are serving as support vehicles and additional packhorses on the trip.

The media contingent for the first leg of the trip includes three Aussies and six Germans, some of which have arrived overnight with limited off-road experience or appreciation for this unforgiving, brown land. Boy, are they in for an education!

The G-Wagens are packed to the hilt, making the most of their hefty GVM. Some have the back seats removed, for extra room to fit everything required for two weeks on the track.

With the roof rack carrying an additional 150kg, it's top heavy to say the least... But apart from the noticeable transfer of weight in sharp corners, the G-Wagen makes light work of its big load. The mighty Merc has passed its first test...

First impressions of the Canning are of very flat country, but I'm taken by surprise by the diversity of terrain. What looked like a sea of red desert from above proves to be an ever-changing landscape, from rocky desert to open scrubland to dense bush. Recent rain has turned a lot of the area green, at least in this neck of the woods.

Today is also our first taste of bone-jarring corrugations, and we've been told we can expect much more. But finding the 'sweetspot' -- about 60km/h on the straighter sections -- sees the G-Wagen glide over them as best as can be expected, despite the all-body massage!

Our first campsite is at picturesque Wandock Springs, as with nightfall approaching we're forced to pull in a few clicks short of the planned Well 6 when one of the service crew gets a puncture...

It's been a hectic first day, covering 193km, at an average speed of 37km/h, with our G-Wagen consuming a respectable 15.8L/100km. Tomorrow, hopefully, should be a bit more relaxed...

Tracking the Canning Stock Route: