Six checks to do on your ute before heading back to the worksite

There are all sorts of reasons why your ute may have been in hibernation for weeks or months at a time. Perhaps you’ve been interstate enjoying a festive-season holiday with the family, maybe you’ve been out of work during a coronavirus lockdown, or you’ve possibly been off work incapacitated by an injury.

Whatever the reason, your ute needs a proper once-over before you kick it in the guts for the hard grind of daily work not only for your safety but for its own wellbeing and ability to keep up. Here are six easy checks to do on your ute before heading back to the worksite.

Without a doubt, tyres are most in need of checking after a prolonged period off the road. Naturally, checking the tyre pressures is the principal concern. Slow leaks can result in the tyres losing pressure over time and you could be literally loading a tonne in the back of a vehicle that’s riding on 20 PSI (138kPa) – which is likely to be two thirds of what the manufacturer recommends. If the pressure is even lower still, and for just one tyre, you’re really asking for trouble driving the vehicle in that state. It won’t brake in a straight line, steering will be inconsistent, handling will be very dodgy and the tyre could even roll off the rim.

Beyond the tyre pressures, and although the casings and tread don’t deteriorate all that rapidly, it’s certainly worth finding the time to take a look at the tyres for any imperfections that could affect safety.

After sitting for several months a vehicle may suffer seized brakes, which could be for a couple of reasons. The pistons in the calipers may freeze, or the pads may bond to the disc rotors, which are iron and will develop a rust over time, when exposed to normal rain events or humidity.

Provided the concentration of surface rust on the rotor is light, the vehicle should be able to move away from stand-still on its own, and the first application of the brakes will grind off the rust. If the vehicle has been left standing in the elements for a long time, the rust could be much worse and, extreme cases may need the rotors and pads to be replaced.

This condition can affect vehicles fitted with drum brakes too, and the parking brake, which often has its own disc system to keep the vehicle immobilised, may also seize up.

If the piston has seized, the usual fix is to remove the caliper affected and apply brake pedal pressure to drive the piston past the corroded section in the caliper. But this is a job for a mechanic, not something you should try at home.

This is a very broad subject. Although the vehicle’s lubricants are unlikely to evaporate or seep out of the sump – unless you have a major undiagnosed leak – it doesn’t hurt to check the level on the dipstick and look for any evidence of discolouration or unusual deposits, such as bubbling, to indicate water/engine coolant has mixed with the oil. It might be a sign of a leaking head gasket.

If the vehicle was last used in the summer months and it’s now late autumn, you will want to check the washer fluid for the vehicle’s wipers. Unlike a radiator, the washer reservoir is not sealed under pressure, so water will evaporate if the vehicle is left standing for an extended period.

Engine coolant also needs to be checked, and as with the engine oil, look for anything untoward in the colour and consistency of the coolant as well as the level. If the level is low, you can top it up with water, but avoid using too much or replacing all the coolant with tap water, which often contains corrosive minerals.

Take a peek inside the respective reservoirs for brake, power steering and clutch (if the vehicle is a manual). Check the level and watch for any discolouration. Brake fluid in particular should be flushed and replaced at the earliest convenient interval if the vehicle has missed a service during its sabbatical in the garage.

If your vehicle runs a battery that’s not of the maintenance-free variety, check the levels of electrolyte by unscrewing the caps and peering inside.

Finally, do look underneath the vehicle for any leaks (lubricants, brake fluid, power steering fluid or coolant).

Left unattended over a long period, a vehicle battery will lose charge and may be difficult to start. If it has become apparent that you won’t be needing the vehicle for a while, it’s a great idea to pick up a trickle charger at an aftermarket accessory store and keep the battery charged (or at least connect the charger a day or two before you anticipate needing the vehicle again).

It’s not uncommon for electrical systems to go on the fritz while a vehicle is rested in a garage for months at a time. Check that all the lights operate to specification (brake lights, indicators, headlights and tail lights) before driving the vehicle. Any individual light that is not operating may just need a globe replaced.

Diesel fuel filters, in particular, may clog after a while, and sediment can settle in petrol filters too. It goes without saying, furthermore, that a long period parked may be a good opportunity to replace oil and air filters as well.

Has dust settled on your door hinges while the ute has been undergoing enforced siesta? You’ll know from the terrible creaking sounds when you open the doors.

What about other parts that have frozen up due to lack of use, like the pulley for an inertia-reel seatbelt, as one example? If you’re not sure how to lubricate these parts yourself, take the vehicle to a nearby workshop to sort it out for you.

So there you have it. Like Sleeping Beauty, your ute needs some tender loving care before you rouse it from slumber. Remember to keep up with its regular servicing and maybe clean out last year’s rubbish from the front passenger footwell too…

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