Matt Brogan•30 Jul 2016

ADVICE

The A-Z of Simpson by Soft-roader

We take a look through the highs and lows of our recent Simpson Desert crossing with this comprehensive alphabetical guide

If you’re a regular to the site, you’ll no doubt be familiar with our recent outback odyssey: Simpson by Soft-roader. The week-long adventure saw team motoring.com.au pilot a Mazda CX-3 and CX-5 across the Simpson Desert, the first-of-its-kind trip defying light SUV convention.

It is, however, a trip we don’t recommend undertaking in your own SUV. These are vehicles designed for light off-road use, and are best suited to gravel roads, snow and ice, and, of course, myriad on-road duties.

But if you do plan heading to an arid and hostile environment such as the Simpson Desert, there are many steps you can take to prepare yourself – and just as many sites to see. In alphabetical order, we list the highs and lows of our recent crossing in this comprehensive guide.

A – All-wheel drive

Attempting a desert crossing in an all-wheel drive (AWD) vehicle isn’t recommended. After all, not all AWD systems are created equal. It really is a better idea to take a four-wheel drive (4WD) vehicle with low-range gearing, suitable ground clearance and suspension geometry. It’s also recommended you know how to operate the vehicle properly before setting off.

B – Borders

The Simpson Desert is intersected by three state borders: Queensland, South Australia and Northern Territory. Intersecting at Poeppel Corner, the tri-state junction is a popular attraction on the desert crossing, and a point of marked historical interest. Poeppel actually inaccurately surveyed the intersection of the three states, the correct placement of the location set by Larry Wells in 1884.

<a href="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-310.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-185909" src="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-310.jpg" alt="A-Z-Simpson-310"></a>C – CX-3 and CX-5

Crossing the Simpson Desert by soft-roader is not something we’d recommend – this is a perilous journey in even the best-equipped 4WD vehicle. That said, the on-demand i-ACTIV driveline of Mazda’s CX range was a fitting choice for our challenge, working tirelessly to deliver drive between the front and rear axles and keep us out of strife. Barring light cosmetic damage, the CX-3 and CX-5 made it across the Simpson without mechanical grievance.

D – Dunes

The Simpson Desert is the world’s largest parallel dunal desert. From end to end there are 1200 sand dunes, their form shaped by prevailing winds to be steeper on the eastern face (or Stoss side). The same winds also mean the dunes grow larger at the desert’s eastern end, the biggest of them all, Big Red, measuring over 40 metres in height! The Simpson’s dunes run SSE-NNW in direction, and are generally unbroken for up to 200km.

<a href="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-302.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-185901" src="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-302.jpg" alt="A-Z-Simpson-302"></a>E – Explorers

Charles Sturt was the first European settler credited with visiting the Simpson Desert in 1844, preceding by almost 40 years the likes of Haddon, Poeppel, Wells, Lindsay and Madigan. Madigan named the Simpson Desert after industrialist Alfred Allen Simpson, owner of the washing machine company of the same name, and president of the South Australian division of the Royal Geographical Society of Australasia.

F – Fuel

There’s nowhere to fill up out here, so is the case with food, water and tyres, you must be self-sufficient when it comes to fuel. Travelling on soft sand causes higher than usual fuel consumption, so it’s recommended you always carry more fuel than necessary. As a rule of thumb, we advise calculating your vehicle’s worst off-road fuel economy performance and adding 60 per cent.

<a href="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/Simpson-Softroader-Mazda-041.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-186122" src="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/Simpson-Softroader-Mazda-041.jpg" alt="Simpson-Softroader-Mazda-041"></a>G – Ground clearance

Larger four-wheel drive vehicles, heavy camper trailers, seasonal traffic and even the weather can greatly impact the quality of the Simpson’s tracks. Deep ruts left in the sand make climbing the dunes more difficult, and can potentially cause damage to the underside of your vehicle. If possible, select a vehicle with an elevated ride height, and always drive in a responsible manner.

<a href="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-306.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-185905" src="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-306.jpg" alt="A-Z-Simpson-306"></a>H – Hydration

It’s absolutely crucial to stay hydrated in the desert. Dehydration is a killer in arid areas, and with higher daytime temperatures and increased physical exertion, your body will consume more water than normal. There are few native wells out here, so we recommend carrying seven litres of water per person, per day, and sufficient to last an additional week in case of break-down or geographical embarrassment.

I – Insects

Depending on rainfall, and the time of year, the desert can be alive with insects – especially flies and mosquitos. In turn, the insects draw bird life to the desert which in turn attracts larger animals, such as dingoes. For this reason we advise against electronic bug zappers and insect traps, and instead recommend a good fly net or a liberal does of Aerogard.

<a href="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-304.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-185903" src="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-304.jpg" alt="A-Z-Simpson-304"></a>J – Journey

The journey into the Simpson Desert can be as challenging as the crossing itself – all access roads are unsealed and are susceptible to seasonal closure. Depending on your start point, the desert may be accessed via the Donohue Highway to the north, the Birdsville Development Road to the east or the rough Mount Dare Road to the west.

K – Kit list

Saving weight is key to saving fuel – and reducing the likelihood of bogging. But it’s imperative to not leave important equipment behind. Tools, recovery equipment, spare parts, tyres, water, food and fuel are vital in remote areas, and could prove life-saving. Check with experienced travellers, reputable websites and forums, and four-wheel drive clubs before setting off to know exactly what you’ll need to take on your big trip.

L – Lone Gum

One of the most unusual landmarks of the Simpson Desert is Lone Gum. This towering tree appears inexplicably between the spinifex and salt bush, a plaque noting both its mystery and significance to passing travellers. The genus is peculiar to these parts, some assuming the Box Eucalypt was sown by indigenous nomads long before European folk arrived.

<a href="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-309.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-185908" src="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-309.jpg" alt="A-Z-Simpson-309"></a>M – Maps

GPS and other electronic mapping technologies are brilliant, but they’re not infallible. A current paper map won’t break down, error, or run out of batteries. It’s also far less likely to be stolen! We recommend buying a reputably-produced map with a scaled grid, and learning how to read it properly before you go. A good old-fashioned paper map is worth its weight in gold.

<a href="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-307.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-185906" src="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-307.jpg" alt="A-Z-Simpson-307"></a>N – Night sky

As fantastic as it can be to watch the moon rise over the dunes, the night sky is even more spectacular without it. Moonless nights allow remarkable views of the stars and constellations, shooting stars, passing aircraft and even satellites. Allow your eyes time to adjust and pack a star guide, too. There’s really no better place to star gaze than the Australian outback.

O – Opening hours

Access to the Simpson Desert can be restricted after heavy rains. It is also closed seasonally from December 1 through March 15. Fire restrictions apply and the gathering of firewood within park boundaries is strictly forbidden. We advise checking the South Australia National Parks website before heading off to avoid disappointment.

<a href="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-308.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-185907" src="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-308.jpg" alt="A-Z-Simpson-308"></a>P – Preparedness

As well as organising your route, stocking food, fuel and water, and preparing your vehicle, you’ll also need to purchase a Desert Parks Pass. Valid for 12 months, the pass grants vehicular access and camping for up to 21 days at a time for seven selected desert parks, including the Simpson Desert / Munga-Thirri National Park. The pass is priced from $160*.

Q – Quality time

The Simpson Desert is uniquely picturesque, the dunes changing in colour from brilliant white through warm pink, deep orange and vivid red. There’s also an abundance of flora and fauna, especially after rains, historic sites, lonely graves, wildflowers, disused oil wells and sacred sites. Don’t rush it! Take your time and enjoy the experience. There really is a lot to see and do out there.

<a href="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-315.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-185914" src="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-315.jpg" alt="A-Z-Simpson-315"></a>R – Red dust

Red dust plus red sand equals red eyes! We strongly advise cleaning and checking all vehicle dust seals before heading off, and having cabin air filters checked or replaced. Use the air-conditioner and set your vehicle’s HVAC system to recirculate and always be sure to come to a complete stop before opening your doors or windows to prevent dust ingress. Finally, drive more slowly in dusty conditions and use your low-beam headlights to increase your chances of being seen.

S – Springs

The Simpson Desert sits above the artesian basin, which at its western end feeds a group of 60 naturally occurring springs. The largest at Dalhousie Springs offers generous camping grounds and basic amenities, the site a popular start or end point for those making the crossing. Water temperatures in the springs range from 38-43 degrees Celsius.

<a href="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-316A.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-186123" src="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-316A.jpg" alt="A-Z-Simpson-316A"></a>T – Tyres

As is the case with food, fuel and water, tyres are hard to come by in the desert. Always carry at least two spares per vehicle (including your trailer or campervan), a high-lift or exhaust jack, high-volume pump and a repair kit. Fit appropriate tyres and modulate your pressure to suit the terrain. We fitted and recommend BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A K02 Baja Champion tyres.

U – UHF

The undulating terrain of the Simpson Desert can make it difficult to see other vehicles approaching. It’s the reason it’s now mandatory to fit a sand flag! But it’s also a sound idea to have a UHF radio (tuned to channel 10) fitted to communicate with fellow travellers, and for use in the event of an emergency. We also recommended carrying a satellite phone, which can be hired or bought.

<a href="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-305.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-185904" src="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-305.jpg" alt="A-Z-Simpson-305"></a>V – Vehicle

Knowing your vehicle is an imperative part of outback travel. Understanding how it operates, how to use its various features, and how to carry out basic repairs and maintenance is critical to ensuring your safety. Spend time reading the owner’s manual, join a four-wheel drive club or attend an off-road training course before heading away. It’ll also help you feel more comfortable – and allow you to venture deeper into – foreign environments. Properly done, the challenge of crossing the Simpson is one worthy of your bucket list.

W – Wangkangurru

The Wangkangurru people called the Simpson Desert (or Munga-Thirri ) home long before European settlers ventured into these parts. As hunter-gatherers they lived in small family groups around Mikiri (or wells), occasionally trading with nomadic tribes. Sites of importance to the region’s indigenous people are clearly sign-posted throughout the park.

<a href="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-314.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-185913" src="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-314.jpg" alt="A-Z-Simpson-314"></a>X – X marks the spot

Should you become lost, or your vehicle break-down, it’s important to stay put. It’s far easier to spot a vehicle from the air than it is a person. Your vehicle will also provide shade and shelter. Use UHF or satellite communications to direct others to your coordinates, and ration your food and water reserves until you can be rescued. If you require medication, it’s recommended asking your doctor for additional supplies before you go.

Y – You never know what you’ll see

It can’t be overstated: the Simpson Desert really is spectacular. Despite being set in the driest part of continental Australia, its variety of insect, bird, reptile and plant life is unparalleled. Add to that expansive playa and dry lakes, spinifex grasslands, fields of wildflowers, acacia forests, mica and gibber fields and the neighbouring Stony Desert we’re sure you’ll have plenty to see. Don’t forget the camera!

<a href="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-319.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-186127" src="//motoring.li.csnstatic.com/motoring/general/editorial/A-Z-Simpson-319.jpg" alt="A-Z-Simpson-319"></a>Z – Zygochloa paradoxa

Tough, hummock forming native grasses including zygochloa paradoxa and triodia (spinifex) play an important part in desert ecology. They serve not only to stabilise the structure of the dunes, but also provide shelter and food for desert-dwelling insects and animals. Prickly, and highly flammable, desert grasses can be quite dangerous. Remember: never park a hot vehicle on dry vegetation.

*Price correct at date of publication.

The A-Z of Simpson by Soft-roader

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