Buying a used BMW 3 Series E36 (1991-98)

In 1991, BMW's 3 Series defined a sleek, new look and a new level of mechanical sophistication that are still remarkably current today. Joe Kenwright looks at the benchmark E36 as it hits middle age

The transformation of the BMW 3 Series with the launch of E36 model range in May 1991 had the greatest impact on the coupe range a year later when it was BMW's first departure from the boxy styling of all 3 Series models that came before it.

Version E36 of BMW's evergreen 3 Series was one of the best and most enduring compact rear-drive models seen in Australia and is still hugely popular. BMW left behind the irritating and costly failures associated with the earlier versions of the previous E30 and introduced a new body style that refuses to date.

Popular new, it is now sought-after as a cheap, safe and unrivalled compact rear-drive used car and can be particularly good value if you are prepared to keep up with its specialist maintenance and parts. Knowing exactly what you are paying for is critical when they all look much the same.

Genuine local deliveries were steadily supplemented by oddball specification grey imports from Japan, Hong Kong, South Africa or in rare cases from the UK. If well looked-after, these still can be good buys but watch for any registration irregularities and accelerated climatic deterioration. State registration departments are cracking down on grey imports wearing the identity of local write-offs so make sure that you don't purchase a vehicle that can be put off the road permanently.

Although BMW dealers have specialised no-risk used car programs for near-new models, most E36 examples are now too old for mainstream BMW dealers. The popularity of the E36 supports specialist used dealers in virtually every state, some of whom update the appearance of the cheaper models for extra appeal. These dealers can provide an extra measure of security.

One of the main problems facing any E36 buyer today is the model's particular popularity with young ex-Commodore owners after the car was sold by its first owner. These second owners often stretched their finances to get into a near new 3 Series then transferred their Commodore maintenance habits to a model that is not as tolerant of mechanical abuse or neglect as local models. Be wary of owners offloading examples that have not seen any specialist BMW maintenance for some time and need major catch-up repairs.

If in doubt about any purchase, it may be better to commission a BMW service centre or specialist repairer to do a pre-purchase inspection then request a quote on work that needs to be done prior to agreeing on a final price. What might seem a minor repair with any specialist European model can quickly grow to include related items that need attention when the car is dismantled.

Checkpoints

Engine
>> Six-cylinder water pumps are a failure point and need immediate attention if they leak.
>> Early six-cylinder engines suffered from cracked plastic thermostat housings. If owner missed warning signs and engine overheated, a failed head gasket can reveal engine block stud problems as the area around the stud can crack and lose tension. A compression test is therefore a must on these models.
>> Examples that have done only short trips with skipped oil changes are also causing catastrophic engine failure as the oil ways sludge-up and starve the engine of oil. Any engine that takes more than a split second to reach full oil pressure after a cold start needs to be checked out. Rattly hydraulic lifters are also an important early warning. All BMW engines need high quality engine oil that meets minimum BMW requirements.
>> Check for the usual cooling system and head gasket deterioration if the coolant history is dodgy. Coolant must meet BMW specifications.
>> Make sure that maintenance records have covered time requirements as well as distance as overdue coolant and hydraulic fluid changes can wreak havoc in the extra aluminium componentry compared to everyday cars.
>> Early fours must have their timing belts changed by the factory schedule or risk serious damage. Engine seals and other parts may need replacement at the same time.
>> Underbonnet heat is now hardening plastics and seals on early cars for cracked or split hoses and plastics and generating leaky seals and gaskets. Drivebelts and radiators are also reaching replacement age.

Running Gear
>> There should be no major transmission problems except for wear and tear and lack of servicing.
>> Rubber tail shaft couplings, rear wheel bearings and seals are routine replacement items.
>> Dampers in early models were already soft and can now be tired.
>> Check for expensive master cylinder and 318i rear wheel cylinder failure if fluid changes are not up to date.
>> Brake discs are a routine replacement item up to $100 each for genuine parts or half that for aftermarket bits but watch the quality.
>> Tyres should meet the minimum legal requirements on the tyre placard.
>> Check the rubber boots on all suspension and driveline parts for leaks and splits.
>> Early examples are reaching the point where steering and key front and rear suspension joints and bushes need replacement. This wear can be accelerated when oversize wheels and tyres are fitted.
>> On cars with modified suspension, check tyre wear patterns carefully. Watch out for cars that don't track straight on a flat surface.
>> Check for underbody damage including cracked alloy suspension components and engine and transmission casings especially if it has run over a kerb or hit something underneath.
>> Check all alloy wheels for cracks and kerb-gouging.

Interior
>> Electronic sensor failure for the airbags and seat belts can be expensive so don't ignore the dash warning lights.
>> All electronics and accessories need to be carefully checked.
>> The sunroof's runners and electrics can give trouble. If its drain tubes inside the A-pillars are blocked, this feeds water into the firewall where it drowns the engine computer.
>> The door trim clips can pull out of the trim and can be fiddly to replace. A factory floor mat that is too short can cause a hole in the heelpad under the driver's foot which is expensive and fiddly to repair.
>> Dash and seats do not deteriorate like the previous E30 but check for cracks and trim wear anyway. Some cloth trim patterns for this series are already unavailable and wear in one seat may require a total retrim in an alternative fabric.

Exterior
>> Paint quality is good and most dull cars can be rejuvenated.
>> BMW panel gaps and paint consistency are usually outstanding so anything that doesn't look perfect, usually isn't. Cut and shuts which patch together several wrecks were common when early values were high.
>> The grey plastic sills, mirrors and bumpers on early cars are often colour-coded by owners and need to be checked for colour match and paint adhesion.
>> The rubber corner trim on the front and rear screens perishes easily but it is a cosmetic item and shouldn't cause leaks if the screen's bonding is still intact.

WARNING: Because the E36 was so popular on the Sydney market, car theft gangs quickly specialised in the model and rebirthed cars are rife. These cars can find their way interstate so leave no stone unturned in checking the car's history.