Yet it still hasn't returned to the spiralling prices of the 1980s. Joe Kenwright presents buyer notes for what could be a blue chip sports car buy.
Local History
Plenty of locally delivered cars but early Aussie roads were tough on the E-type. Cheap UK imports arrived in 1970s riddled with rust and now blend in with sound Aussie cars. More recent US imports usually bring LHD conversion costs on top of big dollar body repairs. Each E-type series has a different serial number sequence for LHD and RHD. Check the numbers as top converted US example will never be worth the same as top local RHD car. Watch for a coupe converted into a roadster. Modern upgrades may make a better car but some can hurt long term values.Structure
Double-skinned monocoque steel tub supports cabin and rear suspension. Lattice-like square-tube frame bolts onto front bulkhead to hold heavy engine, front suspension and large one-piece front body section. Tube frame can pull away from bulkhead on really bad cars breaking the car in two – nasty at E-type speeds. Investigate pinched-up shut line between top of bonnet and scuttle.Front
One-piece bonnet supports bumpers then swivels on front tubing. Hard traffic nudges can shear hinges away from bonnet or damage front frame for alignment problems and frame failures. Careless jacking can also damage frame and radiator. Vital engine splash panels often missing. Fibreglass or carbon fibre bonnet no substitute for the original unless you're buying a cheap modified car.Body
Critical box section sills can hide serious rust. Bonnet seams, headlight cowls, bulkhead near battery, front box section ahead of doors and complex rear bulkhead are all double-skinned condensation boxes that can harbour rust you can't see. Welded-in repair plates covered with underseal usually hide greater horrors. Fixed sill and bulkhead trim may be the only thing holding it together so prod with round screwdriver handle to check if firm behind trim. Dodgy repairers cut out monocoque floor to remove clutch via cabin instead of correct engine-out procedure leaving weakened structure. Even an average body can quickly soak up $30,000 plus to put right.Sourcing the correct leathers and trim pieces can be expensive and require skilled tradesman to replicate original patterns and padding. Stunning woodrim steering wheel and various instrument panel details are often missing but critical to traditional cockpit.
Driveline
Timeless twin-cam six was bulletproof by the time E-type arrived but failing oil pressure, oil smoke under power, crankcase fuming and timing chain clatter from down low are bad signs. Marginal engine cooling on small-intake Serious I cars but twin electric fans as fitted to Series II cars help. Check cam covers are correct for the model. Aussie E-type sixes all had triple-SU carburettors, later US examples and non-standard XJ6 engines had twin Strombergs and big drop in performance. Quaint bellows brake servo unit on early cars is often missing. Enamel on exhaust manifold cracks if squirted through bonnet louvres when hot. Unleaded cylinder head upgrade now useful so it can run on latest premium unleaded fuels without damage. Early gearbox clunky and noisy with non-synchro first so check for broken teeth. Later all-synchro box much better.Fittings
Early headlight covers dictate halogen upgrades. Correct twin exhaust tail pipe shape critical for authentic look. Wire wheels were usually silver enamel with triple-laced tapered spokes but most were chromed in 1970s with non-genuine non-tapered spoke which weakens the wheel and looks wrong. Check all spokes and hubs for clunks under brakes and acceleration. Fat low profile tyres will load up unassisted steering and change the feel.
Suspension and Brakes
Front torsion bars can slump. Complex four coil/damper rear suspension and inboard disc brakes easily removed and fixed at a price. Sound rear suspension mounting points and bushes critical to avoid scary rear steering at speed.
Which one...
E-types constantly changed but correct flat-floor original RHD 3.8 from 1961 now sought after as both coupe and roadster despite primitive early gearbox. Major 4.2 upgrade in 1964 with new gearbox and interior was most practical of original shape. Series 1 ½ lost headlight covers in 1967 before 1968 Series II upgrade with higher headlights, larger intake and full US safety interior. From 1966, stretched 2+2 coupe with auto option corrupted original E-type concept but will double as a family car.Prices
Top early roadsters once hit $90,000 then came back to around $70,000 and now rising. Coupes fetch $15-20,000 less yet offer rear hatch and extra body tightness. Entry price for a good Series II Coupe starts at $40,000, a 2+2 even less. All E-types can generate $70,000 restoration bills so cost in repair requirements to the last dollar before buying. Basketcase 2+2 models are not worth restoring yet.
