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Joe Kenwright15 Mar 2008
ADVICE

Buying a used Volkswagen New Beetle (2000-2005)

After reaction to a modern Beetle concept stunned VW into turning it into a production car, it became a retro-styled VW Golf that had more in common with the Chrysler PT Cruiser than the Mini when it didn't remain faithful to the original layout. For use

VW and Porsche fans hoping for a cut-price small Porsche were disappointed when the VW Concept One design study led to a New Beetle built in Mexico that was a rebodied Golf with front-drive mechanicals and a long way removed from the original's air-cooled flat four hanging out the back.

Yet the New Beetle can add sugar coating to a basic hatch for someone wanting relatively frugal everyday transport and is prepared to sacrifice cabin and luggage space for extra style and presence at Japanese prices.

The first cars arrived in January 2000 powered by the Golf's 2.0-litre 85 kW engine then supplemented by a 75kW 1.6 version in January 2002 with a $7000 price cut. A 2.0-litre Cabriolet arrived in 2003 priced at almost $50,000, since cut by $10,000 at the MY06 upgrade at the end of 2005.

A high performance 110kW Turbo was sold from 2001 then dropped along with the 2.0-litre hatch at the MY06 upgrade. From the MY06 upgrade, the hatch came only as a 1.9 turbo-diesel TDI or 1.6 petrol Miami.

Limited editions included the 1.6 Ikon, 2.0 Sunshine, 2.0 Ikon and 2004 1.6 Miami.

PRICES
Early 2.0 and 1.6 models have dropped below $20,000 with later cars peaking in the mid-$20,000 range. Cabriolets start at just under $30,000. The rare Turbo spans the $18-27,000 price range while a late model diesel starts at $21,000 reflecting demand.

CHECKPOINTS

  • Oddball seating position leaves driver a long way behind windscreen unable to see any front panels which can generate regular panel work on guards and corners. Like the original beetle, the new one is also vulnerable to other drivers scraping the guards. When there is so much fibre-reinforced plastic front and rear, check that repairs are not just fill and patch jobs and the paint finish matches the original.
  • Main failure point is the plastic impeller in the water pump which cracks, falls apart and can take out the engine if ignored. Driven by the cam belt, it should be replaced with every cam belt change when access is easier.
  • Like most VWs of this era, window regulators are a failure item but no longer a high cost repair item when they can be now fixed with a repair kit instead of replacing inner door structure.
  • Exposed alloy engine sumps and transmissions are vulnerable to poor driving especially the thin sump casting on 1.6 models. Normally not an expensive repair job except too many drivers ignore warning lights after they crack the sump on a kerb or rock and keep driving until engine stops from lack of oil. Watch out for damaged engines filled with thick oil to hide bearing rattles.
  • Oil level warning light was fitted on later models to prevent damage if sump is cracked or drivers don't top up engine oil, usually required every 1000-1500 km. However, the sensor can be snapped-off underneath by careless drivers. Check that all oil warning lights come on before engine is started.
  • Soft top sensors can stop fabric roof from raising or lowering if an operating arm is damaged. Fabric roof and rear window need to be carefully checked for weather damage and scratches. Door trim and finish on various switches and door handles can wear on both body styles.
  • ABS modules fail routinely as for most European models. Main suspect is certain type of traffic counter so get it repaired by local expert who knows how to avoid further failure. Check that ABS warning light comes on first then goes off when engine is started. Same applies to airbag warning lights which can indicate expensive problems. Watch out for any warning light that is disconnected to hide a fault so check handbook on what should come on with the ignition.

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Written byJoe Kenwright
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