Volkswagen Alltrack: Alpine Tracking

From slippery snow trails to wayward hunters, Volkswagen's latest Alltrack wagon takes it all in its jacked-up stride

Friday on my mind...? ?

Friday, 8:20am. It's been snowing in Europe. A lot. But I've come prepared. Gloves? Check. Thermal undies? Check. Appropriately rugged German automobile? Check.

The Volkswagen Passat Alltrack we're driving is essentially a jacked-up Passat wagon with underbody bash protection, an all-wheel drive system and a handful of electronic offroad driving aids. And somehow we've been roped in to drive the cars from Munich, Germany, to Ellmau, Austria, then eastbound via Liechtenstein to Geneva – across the Swiss alps... ??Glorified couriers? Bring it on.

The first part of the trip from Munich is easy. Start the Alltrack's engine, a 2.0-litre 125kW turbodiesel mill, settle into the comfy leather captain’s chair, and then find the closest billiard-table-smooth autobahn via the touchscreen satnav. Then nail the throttle until the car won't go any faster – about 207km/h by my count.

What seems like three minutes (and several hundred kilometres later) we arrive in Ellmau across the border in Austria, and mountain peaks the likes of which don't exist back home loom large. To call them majestic doesn't quite do them justice.

After a briefing on the car's capabilities by our VW minders and an explicit "don't crash it" edict, we partake in a short familiarisation drive on a boggy rutted circuit. It quickly becomes clear that offroad ABS and downhill descent controls are useful electronic aids on slippery surfaces...

Later that day, as we drive to our rendezvous point to join the small contingent of Australian adventurers, I reflect on the Alltrack's ease of use. Sure, the steering wheel, centre console and transmission tunnel are festooned with buttons, but you don't have to press them all to get the most out of the car. In terms of "get in and drive" usage, the Volkswagen performs well.

Later we hunker down for the night in an Austrian hamlet called Wattens, enjoying a rich and salty meal of various meats I struggle to identify by sight or taste.

Drive in Saturday...

It’s another early start on Day 2 of our snow-capped escapade. We pack our belongings into the Veedub's spacious, carpeted boot – 588 litres more than enough for two jumbo suitcases, camera gear, computers and backpacks. But programming the satnav takes longer than I thought...

What seems like three hours later, we finally leave Wattens and cruising along at 120km/h the Alltrack is sipping fuel at a miserly 7.5L/100km. After about 80km we pass through a town called Tosens and it makes me think of a grade three teacher I once had with very bad breath... But I digress.

Some of the advanced electronic aids on the car are fun to tool around with, such as the side assist and lane assistants. If they detect the car veering too close to the white road lines, they help steer the car back into the middle of the lane. It's a little eerie but the system is quite effective, and even works in dark tunnels.

After another 100km of highway driving we start climbing higher and higher into the mountains, and though the Alltrack doesn't have an altimeter, it does have a temperature gauge. We've gone from 16 to two degrees in as many minutes. ??Crossing the border into Switzerland, we pass through a town called Scuol and all of sudden the road begins to twist and turn like a ribbon fluttering in the breeze. So I hit the suspension button to change the damping rates from 'comfort' to 'sport', and would you believe the Passat Alltrack is not just a handsomely chiselled face... It can dance!

The German wagon handles itself well on the damp alpine roads, showing a surprising amount of dexterity and composure when cornering – particularly for something that should probably lay off the saturated fats. It tips the scales at a chubby 1725kg.

Some 40km later my pulse rate begins to settle and we arrive at the remote village of Sagliains where we’re faced with a Matterhorn-like mountain that blocks our way. Luckily some clever bloke has bored a 20km channel right through the guts of it.

Following a long queue of cars, we drive onto the back of a train – yes a train – and sit in darkness as the train speeds through the pitch-black tunnel, swaying uneasily from side to side. It’s a bit daunting – think of bad plane turbulence and then crank it up a notch or two, add some loud clanks and the odd whistle and you're almost there.

Finally, the 18 minute hell ride through Mount Doom is over and I breathe a sigh of relief as once again I take control of my destiny, and make my way towards the peaceful town of Klosters.

Comfortable cruising comes easily to the Alltrack – there’s heaps of room for two adults in the front seats and plenty in the back too. After confirming the efficacy of the cruise control it’s time to test out the wagon's snow-slinging skills. We veer off the main road to scout out some offroad trails and somehow find ourselves intersecting a cross country skiing route.

As it turns out the AWD system in the Alltrack is a savvy one. It uses a fourth-generation Haldex coupling system, so technically speaking it's not an all-paw vehicle all the time, initiating the rear wheels only when necessary. But it does so with pico-second rapidity, so you don't feel the transition. ??

When on low friction surfaces (like a metre-plus of packed snow) the system instantly senses where to send engine power – front or rear axle – so loss of traction is rarely a problem. Though the car doesn't always steer in the intended direction, it never becomes irrevocably stuck. And believe me when I say I tried hard to bog the car in the snow...

Another brief stop-off, and I get a chance to show the local cross country skiers the basics of Australian Rules Football, walking them through such fundamentals as the drop-punt kick and overhead mark. Unfortunately the ramifications of launching a mightily impressive 42 metre torpedo punt are that I have to retrieve the ball, which results in soaked legs and feet. ??Thank goodness the Alltrack's heater blows harder than a tuber player on Bourbon Street. My feet are dry again in less than 30 minutes. Thanks Wolfsburg!

On our way out of the snowy tundra we navigate some short, steep rises, which look like they might catch the nose of the car. But with improved approach and departure angles thanks to the added ground clearance (165mm up from 135mm) we avoid any catastrophic damage to the Alltrack's shiny bodywork.

The twin-clutch six-speed DSG transmission is quick on the down shifts as we roll into Kublis, a small and oddly smelly town (the cows are kept in giant sheds during winter, where their dung collects and festers). We stop for a traditional Swiss lunch – pizza! You'd think someone would have ordered schnitzel.

Another 15km down the road and we pass through Maienfeld and then cross the border into Liechtenstein. The sights are awe-inspiring, especially the WWII anti-tank defences put in place to stop the progress of heavy machinery. Flanked by Mother Nature's own fortress, a seemingly endless mountain range, it would be a tough place to invade.

As we finally emerge from the misery of stop-start traffic in the city, the Volksy is back in its element, winding its way out and above Liechtenstein towards Toggenburg, a village known for its classy if unforgiving wooden shoes – and the people that wear them.

Late afternoon, we find ourselves back on freeways for the first time in hundreds of kilometres, and the Alltrack hasn't used half a tank of fuel yet. Our early fuel consumption was clearly not an anomaly.

And with the splendour of the Swiss Alps behind us, we arrive in Zurich where the parallel parking assist comes in handy, slotting us in neatly amongst the urbanites of Switzerland's second largest city. Look mum, no hands!

Easy like a Sunday morning...??

After a hearty breakfast of meat and cheese, I imagine nothing but monotonous freeways and arterial roads to Geneva. Luckily for me, my co-pilot agrees to take the 'scenic' route to the Swiss city.

A couple of hours later, it’s so foggy I have to drive at the legal speed limit again. Then, as we veer off the highway I'm greeted with the soul-soothing sight of a seemingly never-ending mountain range as a patch of fog clears for a brief view.

After ascending for a dozen kilometres or more – the VW's beefy 350Nm of torque effortlessly hauling its lardy weight up the steep roads – we decide to take another detour into the wilds, this time up what appears to be a snow-covered game trail. Engaging the 'offroad' mode at a touch of a button, the plucky wagon engages higher gearing and hill descent control, along with offroad ABS, and succeeds in navigating its way up the steep bush trail.

A few kilometres in, we encounter an elderly man with what looks like tennis racquets strapped to his feet who mutters "nature reserve" several times in broken English. We ponder our options as he continues to load ammunition into what appears to be a long-range sniper rifle. We back away slowly avoiding eye contact...

Back on sealed roads, the fog has almost completely cleared and the view is glorious; our goal near. As we pass the twin towns of Rubigen and Gumligen, we come across the famous Interlaken – a Swiss lake that takes ones breath away. That’s partly the cold too.

With slightly less than half a tank of fuel left and more than 600km of tight and twisty mountain passes behind us, we arrive at our destination, Geneva.

Filling the gap between family wagon and SUV, the Passat Alltrack has survived everything that came its way, from slippery snow trails, to the perils of wayward hunters and confused cross country skiers alike.

If I have one regret it’s packing the thermal underwear – the Volkswagen has seat warmers.

Gallery of Feann taking AFL to the Alps.

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Volkswagen Alltrack: Alpine Tracking

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