The carsales mailbox has no shortage of variety this week.
There’s the usual influx of questions about electric cars – including one buyer looking to get into the family’s third EV and another considering purchasing a rare Tesla Roadster – and someone looking at an affordable and reliable second-hand seven-seat SUV.
We’ve also got someone asking how to permanently disable the advanced driver assistance systems (ADAS) rather than having to push buttons and delve into on-screen menus every time they start the car.
Plus, another reader is wondering how they get ready for public charging with their newly-acquired EV.
Question:
However, I asked them about the possibility to switch off warning signals related to traffic sign recognition, lane departure warnings and other intrusive items which scare and bug me while driving perfectly safe.
A prime example is one of the 40km/h speed limit signs on the road I drive daily which is only applicable to trucks but every car I’ve had which tries to read signs starts beeping that I’m speeding the moment I pass that sign.
Can you find out which modern EVs will have the option to switch it off and have it stay off between starts? – Iwan
Answer: We’re hearing your pain on so many of those safety warnings and recently spoke to ANCAP about the poor calibration of lane keeping systems in particular.
Most obviously, some of the newcomer brands have poorly calibrated driver assist systems that can often be more of a hindrance than a help.
Even the mainstream brands that tend to a better job are a long way of perfecting things such as lane keep assist.
But these systems are now required as part of the ANCAP five-star requirements, which is why all brands (as far as we know) default them to on every time you start the car.
Unfortunately, that’s not likely to be the thing that helps you choose between new EVs.
That said, there are better applications of some driver assist technologies. Most European brands do a decent job, as does Ford. And Tesla is also decent with its assist systems – although they’re still a long, long way off the full self-driving the company would have you think it’s close to achieving.
Question: I’m interested in your views on the Polestar 2. I noted that the MY24 model is now rear-wheel drive. If I got the dual-motor, is there any significant differences between the MY23 and MY24? Also, I would welcome your thoughts on Polestar vs Tesla Y and Kia EV6? – Malcolm F
Answer: Certainly, the biggest change for the MY24 Polestar 2 is the switch from front- to rear-wheel drive for the entry-level model. It’s a significant change that has made that single-motor model a lot better. Throw in the longer driving range and better performance and it mounts a solid case for the rear-drive variant.
If you’ve got your heart set on the all-wheel drive dual-motor model then there are still improvements, albeit not as dramatic. The Dual Motor can charger faster, for example. Plus, there are the design and trim changes elsewhere on the car.
As for rivals you’re considering, the Kia EV6 is a more polished car to drive with more compliant suspension. It also has a far more spacious cabin, especially in the back seat.
Similarly, the Tesla Model Y has loads more cabin space as well as a lot more tech, although the interior lacks the luxury flavour of the Polestar. If you’re planning road trips then there will be many more places to charge the Tesla.
Question:
Answer: The good news is that pretty much whatever you choose will be a step up over the Captiva. While Holden did plenty of tweaks and updates throughout the car’s life, the Captiva was never an overly convincing SUV.
As for what to look at, the Mazda CX-8 is good, solid buying, especially if you’re on a budget. It’s not quite as wide as others (including the Mazda CX-9) but is a lot more affordable.
Also check out the Hyundai Santa Fe, which in diesel guise gets all-wheel drive and is a lot more economical than the front-drive V6 petrol versions.
The Kia Sorento is also a great buy. It shares its mechanical set-up with the Hyundai but comes with a seven-year warranty, so even if you’re buying second-hand there should still be some of that warranty cover left.
Question: I’m looking for a vehicle of any type to handle cornering on hairpin bends and bumpy road challenges of travelling in wet/slippery conditions on roads like Kangaroo Valley Road in NSW. I think a large vehicle adds to the challenge, so I’m opting for a medium-size vehicle. It’s for my wife to travel safely and reliably to/from work. She currently drives a Ford Everest and Volkswagen Golf R wagon, but is looking for better overall running costs, to travel to 160km a day, over terrain presented by the Kangaroo Valley Road drive.
I look forward to your advice and comment on solutions in range of $40K-$80K. – Brett O
Answer: For lower fuel costs and a car that’s still peppy to drive the Honda Civic Hybrid is solid buying. It’s a great petrol-electric system and while it’s not cheap, there’s at least plenty of substance.
A left-fielder could be a Cupra Formentor. Fun and engaging but also easy to live with day-to-day.
There are also some SUVs worthy of consideration. Check out the Kia Sportage, for example. And also look at the Nissan X-TRAIL e-POWER. It won’t be nearly as brisk or sharp as the Volkswagen Golf R, but it’s a great all-rounder SUV.
Also, would you consider an EV? Something like the Kia EV6 – carsales’ Car of the Year in 2022 – would be a terrific option for those roads and it sounds as though you’ll have access to home charging. Up until December 31, 2023, in NSW you’ll also save on stamp duty and potentially be eligible for a $3000 rebate.
The updated Tesla Model 3 is also worth a look.
Question:
Answer: Only a handful of Tesla Roadster EVs made it to Australia and when you have a car that was sold here in such low volumes it makes it almost impossible to determine what it’s worth. With any car of that age the condition of it will make a big difference, and obviously a lack of keys doesn’t help.
The valuation experts at RedBook suggest somewhere between $75,000 and $100,000, depending on the condition.
But given the collectability of the model there could be someone somewhere in the world prepared to pay more. Equally, it could also be a tricky car to sell in future given it’s such a quirky option. Short story is it’s a bit of a how-long-is-a-piece-of-string trying to determine what it’s worth.
However, the big thing you want to ascertain – other than making sure you can start it – is the health of the battery pack. For that you’ll need Tesla to plug into the onboard computer to suss out the condition of the cells.
So Tesla would be our first port of call. They should also be able to help with keys.
Question:
We asked a lithium battery research student who was a friend of my daughter and he opined it was unlikely to resolve problem, and more likely a design fault. The problem remains with the car with warnings and losing power on long trips (we just hope this does not happen in a dangerous moment like passing a road train!) at random moments so we stop and then restart to drive on.
Answer: The original Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV is known for above-average battery degradation. And keep in mind that a PHEV battery pack cycles many more times than the battery of a full-electric vehicle. That’s because it’s much smaller so does a full discharge much sooner (typically within 40-50km) whereas an EV can be 10 times that.
As for your situation, go back to the dealer and point out that your concerns were logged while the car was still covered by the factory warranty. Tell them you think it should be covered under warranty. Also mention a thing called Australian Consumer Law, which is more powerful than any warranty. If you don’t have any luck call Mitsubishi’s customer assistance number on 1300 131 211.
Also, the current Mitsubishi warranty is actually a five-year warranty but can be extended to 10 if every single service is done at a Mitsubishi dealer. It can be cheaper to get the service done outside the Mitsubishi network, which means you could effectively be paying a premium for that extended warranty – in much the way that other brands charge for an extended warranty.
If this is correct, then how do I decide how many apps to install before I visit a charger? Is there a global app for all EV charger providers? What is the list of major EV charger providers in order of quantity installed and the relevant app name for that provider? – Bob
Answer: There is not a single app that covers all EV charging networks and you can’t just use a credit card to pay for charging because they need to be pre-authorised before the electrons start flowing. That means you need to set up an account and provide payment details for about half a dozen charging apps.
As a start we’d recommend popping the PlugShare app on your phone so that you can find chargers near you (or along your planned route). It will also tell you which network those chargers belong to.
If you want to cover most bases, then start by installing the following charging apps: Evie, Chargefox, AmpCharge, BP Pulse, Jolt, eoApp and Everty.
And in the meantime, we’ll be hoping someone can simplify what is currently an overly complex way to charge an EV…