Your questions answered: Why won’t my EV match the claimed range?

This week, there’s plenty of interest still bubbling away for EVs among carsales readers, including one buyer worried about not being able to go as far as the car suggested on a charge.

Another is tossing up whether to take the Tesla plunge, while another is concerned about how much longer we’ll be able to buy petrol for.

It seems cost of living pressures are starting to bite, too, with one buyer searching for a quality alternative to an ageing (but loved) Volkswagen Passat.

We’ve also got someone looking for an adventure van that’s not a traditional 4WD.

Question:

The response from Hyundai was “WLTP of 614km is the achievable range of a fully charged car, but it varies depending on a few factors, such as the drive mode you drive the car on, the AC, if windows open/closed, if you are carrying cargo in the boot or other people, etc”. I drive in Eco, with AC off at present, windows closed, boot empty, one or sometimes two people in the car. I regularly get around 13kWh/100km (WLTP) in town and have done 950km. Why doesn’t my range display close to the advertised 614km? – Trevor D

Answer: EVs will generally estimate their range going off the recent driving history of the vehicle. That means cars driven in different climates and by different drivers could register different estimated ranges despite having identical hardware.

We recently did the launch of the Cupra Born and it was surprising the difference in estimated remaining ranges of the dozen or so vehicles we were driving. They all drove the same route on the same day, but different driving styles – and speeds – meant there were differences of up to 40km or 50km on some identical vehicles.

So Hyundai is right in saying there are many factors. Being from Canberra, the cool autumn overnights may also require some battery heating to look after it. That is something that obviously uses some of the energy in the batteries.

Those results are consistent with other brands. Teslas regularly show 10-20 per cent below their claimed WLTP ranges.

Short story is don’t expect to see that 614km of range unless you drive it super-gently in ideal temperatures. Also keep in mind that the recommendation for daily driving for your IONIQ 6 is that you only top it up to 80 per cent of the battery’s maximum capacity for daily driving.

That’s a recommendation for all lithium-ion batteries with an NMC chemistry. The LFP chemistry used on the BYD Atto 3 and rear-drive Teslas recommends charging regularly to 100 per cent.

Question:

Answer: They’re two quite different EVs. The Kia Niro EV utilises the architecture of an internal combustion engine (ICE) vehicle, so has the compromises that comes with. The Tesla, on the other hand, was designed from the outset as an EV, so has much more space inside and an airier feel.

Sure, the Kia has a head-up display, but the Tesla otherwise wins on equipment, including a full-length sunroof and heated rear seats. The Kia’s seven-year warranty is tempting against the backdrop of only four years’ coverage for the Tesla.

One of your big considerations is how far you’ll get between charges. The Niro GT-Line has a claimed range of 460km whereas the Model Y Long Range has a range of 533km using the same WLTP measurement. In each case, you can expect to go less than those claims. We’d recommend dropping at least 10 per cent off for suburban running and more like 20 per cent for freeways. Both are fast to charge, but the Tesla has a higher charge peak of 250kW, whereas the Kia tops out at about half that.

There’s another major consideration: charging locations. You’ll have a whole lot more options in the Tesla because of the dedicated charging network the brand has created. And keep in mind that the Tesla can also utilise all the generic charging stations the Kia can use.

With all that, we’d be leading you towards the Tesla.

Question: Is Mitsubishi releasing a hybrid with the capability/capacity or similar to a 2021 Mitsubishi Delica D:5 Auto 4x4? And is this a good beach or off-road vehicle?

Am forward planning (seasonal weather inclusive) an Aus coastal road trip for my early retirement. Had been looking at trialling the ‘vehicle relocation’ game to test drive some vehicles that I could potentially live out of and ‘van girl’ around Australia with. Exploring along coastal/hinterland areas and inland through SA throughout Top End to NW & FNQ … down to Tasmania. My limitation is ‘auto’ only. I’m in my early 50s and would like to take wee small dogger on my trip … am not an air-con kinda person … as far as fuel goes does mileage include numbers based on ‘zero’ air-con use?

Many years ago I rough backpacked around Qld, northern NSW & NZ … lived & worked on fishing boats at sea, grew up outdoors camping and fishing … fossicking … exploring … am used to smaller multifunction purpose built vessels and vehicles so was ‘minimalist’ before it was the latest thing … am more about practicalities for ‘basic’ living requirements & minimal load bearings for increased mileage/fuel/maintenance expenses. – Gen

Answer: Hmm, plenty to unpack there, and there may not be a perfect vehicle for you.

Obviously the Delica is a private import, so has nothing to do with Mitsubishi Australia, although the company is studying the business case to bring it here. For now, it’s status as a low-volume import will impact the availability of spare parts, which you’ll have to source elsewhere (the internet makes it a lot easier these days). We’re not aware of a hybrid drivetrain in future, either.

Alternatives could include a Volkswagen Transporter or you could look at the Hyundai Staria diesel, which comes with an all-wheel drive system.

The Skoda Yeti could be an interesting option as could a Subaru Forester or Outback.

None of them are designed for driving on soft sand, although some aftermarket modifications – including a suspension lift and more suitable tyres – could improve their suitability. But, again, you’d want to be cautious about where you took them.

Ideally you’d want a proper grunty four-wheel drive with some decent clearance; a Toyota Fortuner or Mitsubishi Pajero Sport is at the more affordable end of the spectrum, although neither is particularly exciting.

As for fuel figures, they’re usually achieved with the air-con running. But most figures are also derived in a laboratory with an engineer trying their best to minimise fuel use. It’s the sort of driving no normal person is going to do out on the open road.

Short story: You’re unlikely to get anywhere near that in the real world. We’d suggest adding 20-per-cent-plus to the claimed fuel use figure – or more if you’re loading the car up for camping and touring.

Question:

I drive very conservatively (possibly annoyingly so to others). I live and drive in Melbourne but around six times a year I travel to the country to a place about five hours away. City driving is occasionally with four adults (two in their 90s so easy access is important) while the country driving requires luggage space but mainly for two adults.

Answer: Let’s assume you’re open to something second-hand, because it’ll make it a lot easier to get something decent for your circa-$30,000 budget (assuming around $11K for your Passat and $20K of new funds).

The Kia Cerato GT builds on the already impressive formula of more garden-variety Ceratos. Granted, it may not quite have the understated cabin ambience of a Passat, but enough thought has been put into it to ensure it’s a level above the mainstream. The perky 1.6-litre turbo engine is also a nice accompaniment. Keep in mind in auto guise it has a twin-clutch auto, although we’ve heard of fewer long-term issues. Plus you have a seven-year warranty as piece of mind.

Other options could be a Mazda3 G25; a bit more cubic capacity in a compact body adds some spice and the cabin presentation is excellent. You could also look at a Skoda Octavia – it’s all Volkswagen running gear beneath the skin and the sportier RS models are perky enough.

Question:

What does one decide to do in the current climate of the car market? Everything is in flux as we attempt to convert to more environmentally sustainable vehicles. There are endless choices and what might seem right this year could bring penalties/regret in five years’ time.

I want to make a choice that is economically viable for me and hang on to the car for 10-12 years. Second-hand cars are quite expensive at present, money spent on one may as well go towards a new vehicle. I also don’t want to be buying another new car seven years down the track. What is the best advice? Which road does one go down!? (Pun intended!).

I’ve now ended up looking into the most fuel-efficient petrol vehicles. But is this a mistake? In favour of petrol vehicles, they come with a five-year or seven-year warranty so presumably car-makers will support these vehicles – parts, servicing, etc for up to seven years. Or longer, one hopes?

Answer: There are various parts to your question, Sue, so let me start with the first couple and we’ll try to tackle the others next week.

Petrol cars will be viable for many years – decades – to come. Car-makers are obliged under Australian Consumer Law to provide service and parts for a “reasonable time”. While there is no timeframe stipulated by the ACCC, it’s often easy to find parts 10-15 years after the car was sold. Remember that car-makers usually make nice little profits from parts, so it’s a business they like to keep bubbling along.

And, yes, petrol and diesel will still be available for many decades. There are about 20 million vehicles on Australia’s roads and about 19.9 million of them currently rely on fossil fuels. Some of those will still be on the road in 20 or 30 years. As will some of the ICE vehicles that will inevitably be sold in 2030 or 2035.

Sure, by 2050 petrol stations may not be as prolific as today, but fuel will be available somewhere. It may also not be fossil fuel but an e-fuel that can be used with net zero CO2 emissions. Short story is there will still be fuel to keep your jalopy running for many decades to come.

As for residual values of a petrol vehicle being purchased today, the biggest influence there could be government policy. Fuel efficiency standards are due to be introduced to Australia for the first time late this year, although they’ll only target new vehicles. Either way, more detail is needed.

Ultimately, used car values are determined by demand and we wouldn’t expect demand for petrol and diesel cars to fall off a cliff. Sure, more people are buying EVs, but there’s still plenty of love for the practicality of five-minute refuelling.

Question: We are seeking your advice on dealing with Mercedes-Benz about an instrument cluster failure in our August 2017 C-Class 250 model. The car has done 37,000km. The replacement cost is over $5300 and Mercedes-Benz Toowong seem to be having no luck in getting an out of warranty service claim through.

Obviously we are very disappointed in such a purportedly high quality vehicle and are disgusted that Mercedes-Benz don’t seem to stand behind their product. Any advice you can give would be appreciated. – John and Diane

Answer: Instrument clusters generally last the life of a vehicle, whether it’s a Hyundai, Toyota or Mercedes-Benz. The challenge is getting the manufacturer to see it the same way, especially when the quoted repair cost is as steep as it is.

The first step would be to lodge your concerns with the Mercedes-Benz customer care number. You need to convince them that this is their problem rather than yours.

Mercedes-Benz upped its warranty to five years in March 2020, so your car was only covered by a three-year warranty. But Australian Consumer Law (ACL) is more powerful than any vehicle warranty. It stipulates that guarantees “apply for an unspecified but reasonable period, to be determined by a range of factors, including the nature and cost of the goods”.

Our guess would be that the expectation of an instrument cluster on a circa-$75,000 luxury car would be that it lasts more than five-and-a-half years. Make sure the dealer is also aware of your understanding of ACL and tell them you intend to take the matter further.

If you still have no luck, log a complaint with the Queensland Office of Fair Trading, which is the first step to getting the issue resolved under ACL.

UPDATE: Mercedes-Benz has since mostly come to the party and offered to cover the bulk of the repair cost. However, the owners are being asked to pay $700, which is still a bit for a component that most would expect to last the life of the vehicle. The owners are happy, though. Diane said “we are obviously delighted” and “thank you for your advice and encouragement to pursue the matter when we were beginning to feel we had no hope”.

Question:

Answer: The Toyota Kluger is solid buying in the large SUV space, although that hybrid version is only available as an all-wheel drive, so it’s not exactly cheap. That said, it should pay back in the long run with decent residual values in future.

The best alternatives come from the Hyundai and Kia showrooms. Hyundai has the Santa Fe and Palisade, each sharing basic underbody mechanicals but with the Palisade offering more space, especially in the third row. You also get plenty of bang for your buck.

From Kia is the Sorento, which in all-wheel drive guise also shares a 2.2-litre turbo-diesel engine with the Hyundais, for efficient running. It’s great buying and edged ahead in carsales’ Best Family SUV 2023 announced recently.

Like the Santa Fe, the Sorento is also available as a hybrid, although each has a decent price premium that makes the diesel the better choice for most people.

But if you need the extra space – which with three kids and their friends is a distinct possibility – we’d also thoroughly recommend the Palisade.

Got a question but don’t know where to find the information you need? Email us at editor@carsales.com.au

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