Your questions answered: Why won’t my new EV go as far as it claims on a charge?

There’s often a discrepancy between how far an EV says it can travel and how far it will actually get between charges.

One new EV owner is coming to terms with a car that won’t travel as far on a charge as it claims.

Tackling that issue around EV range is the first of our reader questions this week.

Sticking with the EV theme, we’re also revisiting single- and three-phase charging – and how well your house is set up to keep an EV powered.

There’s also the tricky issue of selling a car with finance owing on it.

Plus, we’re helping someone shop for a new hybrid SUV and another wanting to trade from a Mercedes-Benz to a Lexus.

Got a question but don’t know where to find the information you need? Email us at editor@carsales.com.au

Question: We bought a Zeekr X and have been having issues with range.

We made our decision to buy based on the range data we were able to source online, including from Redbook.

Redbook accurately suggests 470km under Australian Design Rules (ADR).

What doesn't make sense, however, is 18.3kWh/100km (also ADR).

Given a 66kWh battery, if you extrapolate out the 18.3kWh number you promote, that equates to 360km.

On one line you state 470km under ADR. Then on the next line you provide data that effectively states 360km under ADR.

This is worse than misleading. The available data is all over the shop.

The average car buyer should be able to trust some data – particularly from a ‘reliable’ source like Redbook.

In the past I have not questioned Redbook data as I trusted that it was verified and validated. – Barry

Answer: Most Redbook data is supplied by car makers as part of the certification process to ready a car for sale in Australia.

ADRs require electric cars to quote a range figure tested to the NEDC (New European Driving Cycle) standard.

Unfortunately that standard is fairly optimistic in terms of how far you’ll actually make it on a charge.

It’s not that the data is incorrect but that the test is not necessarily relevant to how most will drive their car.

The WLTP (Worldwide Harmonised Light Vehicle Test Procedure) testing methodology that Europe has switched to is more accurate (although still not perfect), which is why many brands quote those figures in their marketing material. In short, they would prefer customers get a more realistic picture of EV range.

As with petrol cars, though, EV energy use can vary wildly depending on how you drive.

Higher-speed freeway driving typically uses more electricity, because aerodynamic drag is greater at higher speeds.

I generally recommend people knock about 10 per cent off the WLTP claim for regular driving or 20 per cent for freeway driving.

Zeekr only quotes the ADR figure in its Australian specifications, but the WLTP figure for your Zeekr X AWD is 425km. In the real world it’d be safe to assume something like 380km.

As for the discrepancy between energy use and the claimed range, that’s not uncommon. It again comes down to the testing methodology, which takes into account charging losses.

Depending on how you charge you can expect some of the electricity that leaves the charger to be lost as heat when electrons are flowing (the same thing happens when you charge a phone or laptop). It’s usually around 10 per cent.

Take the just-released Tesla Model Y Rear-Wheel Drive (the top-selling EV in the country). It has a circa-62kWh battery and claimed WLTP range of 551km. Yet its official government-derived energy use is 15.8kWh/100km. That suggests actual range of 392km. But, again, it’s the testing standard and the assumption of charging losses that partly explains the discrepancy.

Question:

You may only draw 7.4kW of single-phase power from a ‘dedicated circuit’, which is completely different to a normal 2.4kW domestic powerpoint. Even then, it may not be possible in many circumstances.

I would seriously doubt that a 7.4kW outlet would normally be available in the average retirement village garage without paying many thousands of dollars to install one. Five figures could be possible.

The same could also be said about a normal residence.

I suggest that anyone looking to buy an EV that requires home charging at more than 2.4kW to get advice from a licensed electrician to see what costs may be involved before committing to the purchase.

I’m a retired electrician and I’ve heard numerous sad stories relating to this scenario.

It may be worthwhile for Toby to promulgate this potential problem. – David

Answer: Thanks David, and yes – the type of charger you want to install will depend on the wiring in the house. The reader suggested they had single-phase power available in the garage, so I was only going off that assumption.

But, yes, an electrician is the best way for anyone to work that out.

For those who can’t get the full 7.4kW from a single phase they may be limited to utilising a standard powerpoint.

But even for anyone using a standard household powerpoint that may be plenty for most people. As you say, there’s 2.4kW – or 2.3kW if you’re getting 230V – which will typically add around 10km of range per hour of charging.

For an overnight charge you should easily be able to get upwards of 100km of range.

Sure, it means charging regularly but, provided you remember to plug in, many EV drivers will find they can easily live with such slow charging.

Question: I’m in a highly, highly complicated situation.

My current daily driver is a 2018 Mazda CX-5 Touring non-turbo with 80,000km on it. I bought it back in June of 2024 for $30,000 so I’ve had it for about 12 months now.

Fast forward to now, I’m barely managing to get by, and I’m actually making attempts to get the car roadworthied again and purchase another of what I had prior to the Mazda (a Mk6 Golf hatch TDI), solely because of emotional attachment and withdrawal.

My biggest worry is how I’m going to be able to sell off the car knowing it has encumbrance on it, even if I were to sign a statutory declaration stating that I will, in fact, be using the purchaser’s money to pay off the finance, rather than for my own personal pleasure and in turn screwing them over.

I have no idea what to do. Even after I’ve done everything needed to get the CX-5 roadworthy again, how do I convince someone to buy it off me so I can get what I really need and ease the financial burden that the repayments have on me?

Any help is seriously appreciated. – Craig.

Answer: It’s sometimes not an easy situation trying to sell a car that still has finance owing.

Make sure you’re up front with any potential purchasers about the financing situation (they’ll be able to figure it out from a PPSR check anyway, so best to be open).

Also discuss it with your lender that has financed the car. They may be able to accept direct payment from the purchaser of your car, therefore making it more palatable for the buyer.

Another option is to take out a short-term personal loan to pay off the car. There’s obviously the inconvenience of that and a financial cost, too.

You could also look at selling the car to a dealer, although the price you’ll get for it will likely be lower than if you were selling it privately.

Question: Just wanted an opinion on the GWM Haval H6, petrol or hybrid, and if it was a good compromise on a budget or if there was anything else I should look at. – Florent

Answer: The hybrid drivetrain is the nicer thing to drive in the Haval H6. Sure, you’ll pay more for it, but we reckon it’s a premium worth splashing out for. That’s not only for the superior driving experience but also the fuel savings.

The hybrid has claimed fuel use of 5.2L/100km, which is a fair bit less than the 7.4L/100km of the front-drive petrol-only engine. You can expect an even greater difference around town where the hybrid’s regenerative braking will help further reduce fuel consumption.

Given the $3000 to $4000 premium, it should pay itself back in fuel savings within five or six years. And if hybrids keep performing as strongly as they have been on the used car market, there’s a good chance it’ll be worth more than an equivalent non-hybrid when you go to sell it.

As for alternatives, there are plenty, especially if you’re happy with a standard hybrid (i.e. non-rechargeable). Check out the Toyota RAV4, Kia Sportage, Hyundai Tucson, Nissan X-TRAIL e-POWER and Honda CR-V. They’re all great options for different reasons, albeit pricier than the H6.

Also check out some plug-in hybrid alternatives, including the Haval H6GT.

Plus there’s the recently arrived Jaecoo J7, which has a plug-in hybrid badged as SHS (super hybrid system). It’s a decent hybrid and sharply priced, although the driving dynamics are below par.

There’s also the BYD Sealion 6 that also has a great plug-in hybrid system that delivers 80km-odd of EV range but also has a petrol engine as a back-up and to boost performance.

It’s also a bit sloppy in the suspension but has decent cabin space and a long list of standard gear.

Question: I am looking at the Lexus LBX as a replacement for a 2014 Mercedes-Benz A200. I am aware of the power and rear seat space limitations. Are there any other issues I should be aware of or any other options you would recommend? – David

Answer: A lack of space in the back seat and boot is by far the biggest issue with the Lexus LBX (the smallest car ever to wear a Lexus badge). It’s great for singles and couples who won’t regularly need more than two seats, but would be an issue if you regularly want to load it up (which it sounds like you won’t be doing).

Elsewhere the LBX is a surprisingly good thing.

And, sure, there’s not much power on offer from the three-cylinder hybrid system, but the torque from the electric motor makes for thoroughly respectable acceleration.

It’s very fuel efficient, too, with claimed consumption of 3.8L/100km; while you can expect to use a bit more, it can also get very close to that figure.

It’s a shame the engine sounds a bit dull, because it’s a rare blemish on the otherwise great driving personality.

All-wheel-drive variants get a more advanced multi-link rear suspension system that adds some maturity to an already competent driving experience.

All of which is a lot of positives for an entry-level luxury SUV that delivers on the driving experience and attention to detail.

Got a question but don’t know where to find the information you need? Email us at editor@carsales.com.au

Join the conversation at our Facebook page
Or email us at editor@carsales.com.au