The Alpine Tour
A tour of the Victorian High Country in Autumn delights with the revelation of a landscape otherwise defined by its sub-zero temperatures and snow-covered peaks. As it turns out, what appears to be a vastly snow-season dependent economy, the Victorian Alps have much to offer beyond it’s famous slopes.
The route for Australia’s Best Driver’s Car 2018 took us on a journey that commenced at head quarters in Melbourne, weaving our way through the stop-start northern-suburbs before our first driver change at historic Euroa.
Five days and thirteen more car and driver-changes later, we discovered the diverse road network that cascades beyond the Great Alpine Road heading east towards Falls Creek and beyond.
How’s the serenity?
A good road trip is one where it’s as much about the journey as it is the destination. For this, great roads and spectacular scenery is a must. And in the case of ABDC, an awesome car is a given.
Our entry to the mountain ranges was via the Great Alpine Road (B500), which in its entirety stretches 339km from Wangaratta to Metung in East Gippsland. Smooth sealed roads with frequent overtaking lanes afford you ample time to gaze at the breathtaking scenery, which at this time of year looked like an autumnal explosion of colour as trees ready themselves to shed their leaves. Grand tourers such as the Mercedes-AMG E63 S 4MATIC+ and Audi’s RS 5 quattro felt right at home on long flat sweepers.
Early mornings showcased steel blue mountain tops that peak through low-laying fog; while oh-so-crisp evenings have you hunting for chimneys bellowing wood-fired smoke.
Travelling through Oxley on our way to Tawonga Gap, the roads narrow, surfaces deteriorate and the vast views give way to towering trees and lush forests. With this came more challenging roads consisting of tight winding roads, steep hills and frequent gear changes. The likes of Honda’s Civic Type R and the Hyundai i30 N revelled.
Stop and take it all in
The view from Sullivan’s Lookout (with plenty of room to pull off) should not be missed.
Enthusiast drivers in particular, will enjoy the run heading south from Mitta Mitta. A series of near identical twists and turns are quite a treat; guaranteed to build the forearm strength. Travelling on narrow roads that feel better suited to just one car, you’ll find patience a great virtue at times.
Passing through alpine villages of Falls Creek, Dinner Plain and Hotham at this time of year feels like a movie-scene back lot experience, the vast car parks and sleeping machinery lying in wait of the imminent ski-season. It’s this time of year when mountain bike riders, motorcyclists, runners and cross-country hikers reign supreme.
There’s no time of year that this region is without activity. And with fewer cars than usual, and no snow or ice to contend with, it’s great time to enjoy the roads which all of our 2018 ABDC contenders soaked up.
Travelling town the mountainside to Omeo (and not just for lunch at The Golden Age Hotel), the sparsely populated alpine hilltops make you feel like you’re on top of the world, with exhaust notes to match in our case.
Much pub-style grub
Long days behind the wheel build great appetites for which this region has you well covered. Travelling from the west towards Mount Beauty, you’ll pass through the famous Milawa Gourmet Region. Home to wineries and home-grown produce including Brown Brother’s Winery and Epicurian Restaurant for starters.
But it’s perhaps off the beaten track that you’ll find some unexpected culinary delights, where old-school pubs, breweries and bakeries rule the roost with hearty meals that dwarf your average dinner plate.
From our beginnings at The North Eastern Hotel (The Northo) in Benalla, to the warmth and hospitality at the Harrietville Pub, and the complete sleeper called Stockpot in Mount Beauty.
At the end of a week that featured mostly questionable coffee, it was The Mansfield Coffee Merchant that gave us our final round of sustenance before the team retreated to their various parts of Australia (several kilos heavier).
No regrets
As a judge at Australia’s Best Driver’s Car we’re not only asked about highs, but also the lows of the week-long drive experience. An overwhelming response is that we simply never have enough to time stop, take a breath and enjoy the moment.
Car change number three saw us descend on The Blue Duck Inn at the bottom of the valley, where three alpine trout streams meet (Cobungra, Bundara and Mitta Mitta Rivers). A weekend of fly-fishing, a roaring log fire and red wine awaits… another time.
The Mitta Mitta pub served amazing food, but the real joy is its outdoor seating and grassy fields that make the most of its river-side location. I wished I had my kids with me – they’d be rock-hopping and knee-deep in water in no time.
And like many of my fellow judges, I leave ABDC saying “I’m definitely making the time to come back here”.
Recalling those simple moments where the dappled sunlight breaks through the trees as you grip and turn, or gasping for breath as you reach the height of a pristine mountain top hairpin with views for miles with more sky than you thought possible, or the wonder of star-filled skies that city-lights rarely afford, or maybe it was simply the resounding silence just before dawn.
Wherever it is you’re headed, forget about the end-game and enjoy the journey.