Jeep thrills

The timber sign on the side of the trail reads: “Low-range, four-wheel drive vehicles with short wheelbase only past this point”. But it probably should also have warned: “Those who suffer from vertigo or altitude sickness turn back now.”

We’re driving a Jeep Wrangler along a mountain-hugging sliver of track high in Colorado’s Rocky Mountains. Peering up through the bluff windscreen I can just glimpse our goal, the 3929m (12,890 ft) high summit of Red Mountain III.

Right now the 187cm wide Wrangler is proving a tight squeeze as we crawl along gravel-strewn trails better suited to the 19th century prospectors who blazed these trails on horseback than modern day, offroad adventurers.

With the steering wheel on the ‘wrong’ side, it’s all I can do to prevent the jagged rocky wall on my left side from scraping shiny paintwork, while not dropping a wheel over the unguarded, soft-edged precipice on the other.

Edging along at less than 10km/h, it’s hard not to enjoy the heady heights and mind-boggling views, while stealing glances at the postcard-perfect backdrop of red-topped mountains dotted with pine, spruce and aspen trees, waterfalls, and the still snow-capped peaks.

Colorado is America’s eighth largest state, and the only one that lies entirely above an elevation of 1000m (3281 feet). With 52 mountain peaks over 4267m (14,000ft) high, and stunning natural beauty at every turn, the area is a magnet for skiers and snowboarders. Fact: up to a staggering seven metres of snow falls on Colorado's peaks during winter!

Being late-July much of the ice has melted and wild flowers are in bloom and with the cloud-scraping trails now accessible to four-wheel drive vehicles, we’re taking part in a Jeep-themed adventure through some of America’s most stunning mountain passes.

We’re also following in the tracks of countless American Jeep owners who for the last 25 years have joined Jeep Jamboree offroad adventures in this region.

DURANGO DEPART
Our two-day Jeep Experience kicks off in the former Wild West town of Durango. But rather than take the faster route up Highway 550 to the old mining town of Silverton, we opt for the more leisurely and romantic Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad.

In continuous service since 1881, the line is now reserved for sightseers and steam-train buffs, rather than hauling riches from the silver and gold deposits mined from the late-19th century. Snaking through the San Juan Mountains past rocky slopes, steep cliffs and the rolling Animas river, our 1923-vintage locomotive consumes three tons of coal and 19,000 litres of water, during its three-and-a-half hour, 73km journey to Silverton.

It’s a blast from the past – literally – especially when I poke my head out of the open carriageway, and receive an eye-full of gritty soot billowing from the engine stack. It’s also a stinging reminder of the glory days of pre-automobile transport – well before the first Willys Jeep entered production in 1945. Times when pollution and CO2 emissions weren’t major concerns.

Disembarking from “Ol’ no.478”, we stroll to Silverton’s Shady Lady establishment where, instead of a being greeted by an obliging, garter-wearing lady, we encounter a line-up of 2012 Jeep Wrangler and Grand Cherokee models.

With rain sprinkling down, we opt for the cosseting comforts of a range-topping Grand Cherokee Overland Summit, and join up with the Alpine loop trail that connects the small mountain town of Silverton, Lake City and Ouray.

Stopping at Animas Forks, the best preserved of many mining-era ghost towns we’ll encounter, the altimeter on the vehicle’s sat nav display is already indicating an oxygen-deprived 3400m. We’re already higher than Australia’s loftiest peak, Mt Kosciuszko, at just 2228m (7310 ft) above sea level.

BREATHTAKING VIEWS
Gasping for breath after a gentle stroll to some old mining remnants, I quickly discard any further thoughts of getting fit by bush-walking and return to the secure confines of the Grand Cherokee.

Despite its prestige demeanour, the walnut and leather-lined Overland provides a plush, fuss-free ride over the moderate dirt trails, thanks partially to its height-adjustable air-lift suspension, but also its willing V6 petrol engine and smooth five-speed auto.

After selecting ‘Sand/Mud’ from the Selec-Terrain all-wheel-drive system menu, and switching to low-range gearing, the big Jeep wagon easily handles the rougher terrain.

Here the Hill Descent Control is also handy for ensuring a consistent speed down the many sharp drops and tricky switchbacks. Its low-noise Michelin road tyres and fully independent suspension make it less gung-ho than the Wrangler in more challenging sections.

After a couple of hours we pull over at a campsite with one solitary, timber-framed ‘restroom’. With vegetation by now mostly limited to alpine tundra grass, I avoid the long queue and find relief on a hill while enjoying the stunning vistas.

Around 100,000 people visit these trails every year, and judging by the vehicles we encounter, the majority are Jeep owners. The hardcore, two-door Wrangler Rubicon model seems to be the preferred option. Given the environment and the iconic offroad status of the 70 year-old Jeep nameplate, it’s no surprise to hear that Colorado is among the top-five states for Jeep sales in the USA.

Driving down the mountain to our overnight campsite at Ouray (3378m), the sun breaks through, prompting a dash by the Wrangler drivers to remove hard and soft-top panels for some open-air Jeep-style motoring.

We’re just happy to open the Grand Cherokee’s sunroof, particularly when the skies turn grey again and there’s a mad rush to re-attach the fiddly plastic panels and flappy, rear canvas protection to the old-school Wranglers.

After a Cowboy-style ‘cookout’ including steaks the size of the Cherokee’s shiny 18-inch alloys, we have the option of sleeping in a Jeep... Not the car but a Jeep-branded, colour-matching camper trailer or Jeep tent, courtesy of Chrysler’s 75-year old Mopar accessories brand.

After missing out on one of the cosy, pop-top campers, I snare a six-berth tent, which looks the deal until it starts to rain and water drips through the door zips close to my cot. At least I didn’t suffer a severe bout of altitude sickness, as befell a fellow Aussie traveller. Some reviving snorts of concentrated oxygen from a spray can soon had him back in the saddle.

Among the eye-catching mix was the Jeep Grand Cherokee Trailhawk Concept boasting Goodyear Wrangler SilentArmor tyres on special Mineral Gray painted 18-inch alloys, Mopar rock rails, and enough black, red and grey styling add-ons to boost its street cred.

Built by Mopar Underground, the Jeep Compass Canyon looked ready to hit the hills with front and rear sway bars removed and underbody armour fitted, Rocky Road Suspension hi-lift kit, Kicker sound system, and Mopar items including cold-air induction kit and slush mats.

For horsepower junkies there was the Wrangler Traildozer Concept, complete with 6.4-litre Hemi V8, 37-inch Mickey Thompson rubber, 3.5-inch suspension lift, Mopar front and rear body protection, and Warn winch. While the J-12 Concept was essentially an extended version of Mopar's recently introduced JK-8 pick-up conversion kit for the Wrangler.

Fans of classic Jeeps could drool over an original 1962 Jeep Willys, now boasting power steering and 4.0-litre, six-cylinder power after its transplant to the chassis of a 2004 Wrangler.

But most intimidating of all was the Jeep Mighty FC Concept. A modern take on the Jeep Forward Control pick-up truck built from the 1950s, it's basically a stretched version of a 2012 Wrangler Rubicon with the cabin repositioned over and ahead of the front axle, and custom built drop-side cargo box attached.

This monster truck also boasts a boulder-clearing Mopar Portal Axle set, King coil-over suspension and custom Hutchinson 17-inch wheels on massive 40-inch rubber.

It’s a twisting thrill ride along blasted cliff faces and through avalanche ‘shelters’, but the lack of guard rails makes it a treacherous route for the unwary.

Soon enough we’re back on more familiar, skinny mountain trails, tackling Imogene Pass, which at 3997m is one of America’s highest driveable passes. With plenty of big boulders and slippery mud to negotiate, we’re glad we chose the go-anywhere Wrangler for this leg. With its low-reduction gearing, better approach, departure and ramp-over angles, and good sightlines over the bonnet, I don’t have to think twice about attacking gnarly slopes.

While the Grand Cherokee is a comfier cruiser (leather, heated steering wheel?), the Wrangler is an out and out off-roader, with aggressive all-terrain tyres, better axle articulation, and electronic aids that help it to eat up anything in its path. Not that we’re exactly slumming it in the retro-style Wrangler Unlimited Sahara, which unlike Jeeps of old, boasts climate control, touch-screen display, heated leather seats, and the same V6 engine and transmission combo as the Grand Cherokee.

About half way to the summit fears of altitude sickness –or perhaps hallucinatory after-effects of the sleeping pills I took on the flight over – take hold when we encounter the surreal sight of a violinist playing classical tunes on the trail, alongside an orange Wrangler. Envisioning an awkward encounter with a crazy Andre Rieu-style fiddler, I promptly close the window, crank up Bruce Springsteen’s ‘Born in the USA’ on the satellite radio, and plough on past.

Rewarded at the top by breathtaking views of the three Red Mountains we circumnavigated the previous day. Unfortunately, this is followed by a long, painstakingly-slow descent to our final destination, the ski resort town of Telluride.

The biggest issue going down is squeezing past oncoming traffic, particularly the oversized Dodge Ram pick-ups, jam-packed with anorak-wearing tourists in the tray, who wave deliriously (probably to avoid hypothermia) as we pass.

Disconcertingly, at one point we spot a trail runner a few hundred metres ahead, but lose sight of her as she bounds down the mountain... obviously at a faster pace than our Jeep!

Our Jeep-flavoured trip is not over quite yet though, with a brief spin around town in some radical Jeep offroad concepts, including the stylised Grand Cherokee Trailhawk, Wrangler J-12 stretched ute, and jacked-up, Hemi V8-powered Wrangler Traildozer.

Our favourite though, is the Mighty FC Concept, a modern, monster truck-style version of the classic Jeep Forward Control pick-up, featuring modern Wrangler cabin, high-lift suspension and massive 40-inch rubber.

If we’d had that out on the trail, we could have driven clear over oncoming traffic rather than pulling over!